I received an email today from someone asking about the various types of grit for a rock tumbler. The type of grit you use can make a huge difference in your final polished stones, so I thought I would write up a little more about the various choices.
First, before going into the specific choices, there are some general things about rock tumbler abrasives that are important to know. Although the abrasives used in rock tumbling are commonly called “grit”, the term grit actually refers to the size of the grains in the abrasive. So, just like with sandpaper, the smaller the number for the grit, the more coarse the grains. For example, Silicon Carbide 120/220 includes grains that are between 120 and 220 grit.
When using a rock tumbler, you go through a series of cycles starting with a coarser grit and moving towards a finer grit. A coarser grit does a heavier grinding and sanding of the stones than a finer ones. The finest grits are reserved for the polishing stages of the rock tumbling process.
Silicon Carbide - This abrasive is a compound formed from silicon and carbon. Although it can be found naturally, it is usually man-made. Various grit sizes of silicon carbide are basics for any rock tumbling project. It ranks around a 9 on the Mohs scale of hardness, so it is effective as a grinding and sanding agent on most stones. If you’re putting corundum (rubies and sapphires) in your rock tumbler, you should check into a different substance because you want your grinding and sanding grit to have a higher hardness rating than the materials you are tumbling. However, in general, silicon carbide does a great job on other materials.
Boron Carbide - Composed of boron and carbon, this abrasive has a hardness of about 9.3 on the Mohs scale. It acts very similar to silicon carbide, but it is much more effective if you’re tumbling corundum. You could certainly use it in place of silicon carbide on stones other than corundum, but you’d be spending a lot more money. Boron carbide can cost up to 10 times more than silicon carbide. It’s also quite a bit messier to use so I definitely recommend only using it when you absolutely need it. In fact, if you’re new to using a rock tumbler, you might want to stay away from corundum altogether for awhile and practice on other stones that are easier to polish.
Aluminum Oxide - This compound composed of aluminum and oxygen also has a hardness of about 9 on the Mohs scale. It is most commonly used as a pre-polish and polish because of its availability in finer grain sizes. Although it may not be the absolute best polishing agent for all material types, aluminum oxide makes up for that by being a good all-purpose polishing grit. If you are putting a lot of mixed loads in your rock tumbler or if you just want to purchase one general compound for polishing, this is the one you want to get.
Cerium Oxide - This abrasive is reserved as a choice for a polishing agent. It works best on stones in the 5-7 hardness range. It’s also a good choice if you’re polishing glass pieces in your rock tumbler. Cerium oxide gives a beautiful polish to quartz.
Chrome Oxide - This substance is another that can be used in the polishing cycle of rock tumbling. It’s generally reserved for softer stones with deeper colors such as jade and lapis lazuli.
So, if you’re just starting out, what are the best choices to get for rock tumbling grit? I would recommend getting three types of Silicon Carbide (60/90 grit, 120/220 grit, and 500 grit) for the grinding and sanding cycles, Aluminum Oxide 1000 grit for the pre-polish cycle, and Aluminum Oxide Polish for your final polishing stage. As you practice more and want to do some additional experimentation, you can try out some of the other polishing agents.